Jpoijhgwedfg M. Gtgiokjhderfg Jr.
2003-08-11 17:48:20 UTC
OK, a few people emailed me about getting suits for themselves or their
husbands/BFs/etc. So, I figured there might be an undercurrent of curiosity on
the matter and as such, I best address it.
First of all, that a suit is tailor-made is not THAT much of a distinction. It
just means an actual human being made this, as opposed to some machine in a
factory somewhere. Still, even tailors will use sewing machines, etc. when it's
appropriate. The two top tiers of the suitmaking world are made-to-measure
(i.e., MTM) and bespoke or custom-made. "Bespoke" is generally considered to be
the province of the tailoring establishments of Savile Row, London; much like
"couture" is the turf of the assorted couture ateliers of Paris. (Only that to
be officially considered "couture" one must jump through a series of
bureaucratic hoops of the Gallic kind, whereas no such strictures enslave the
bespoke tailoring houses of London. But I digress.)
Anyway, the main differences are that a MTM suit will use a pre-existing
pattern adjusted to your own measurements, anomalies, asymmetries, etc. A
bespoke/custom suit will have a pattern made from scratch. Either kind of suit
(and the better ready-to-wear suits) will exhibit a few distinctive touches. A
partial list:
1- Style. The width of lapel, taper of trouser, pleat depth, etc., will
vary--at the very most--a few millimeters, year over year. The suit will likely
last 20-30 years, which is a long time to be wearing a nehru jacket or dropped
lapels or flared [shudder] trousers. Therefore it is vital the silhouette be
timeless.
2- Details. The details will be key. Matching the patterns at the pockets,
finishing and taping all seams on the inside (there are many seriously high-end
custom suits that have little or no lining), flower loop on the underside of
the lapel...all these distinguish the MTM/custom suit from its lesser brethren.
3- Construction. This suit will move well with the wearer. This is because the
armholes are egg-shaped, not round; the interlinings are floating canvas, not
fused, the shoulders follow the natural pitch of the collarbone, etc.
As you can imagine, none of this comes cheap, especially if you go for full
custom over MTM. (I've only had one full-custom once, and while it does fit
better than other MTM suits, I dunno it warrants the STIFF premium in price.)
Any questions?
-Joe in SoFla
I don't care, and you can't make me.
husbands/BFs/etc. So, I figured there might be an undercurrent of curiosity on
the matter and as such, I best address it.
First of all, that a suit is tailor-made is not THAT much of a distinction. It
just means an actual human being made this, as opposed to some machine in a
factory somewhere. Still, even tailors will use sewing machines, etc. when it's
appropriate. The two top tiers of the suitmaking world are made-to-measure
(i.e., MTM) and bespoke or custom-made. "Bespoke" is generally considered to be
the province of the tailoring establishments of Savile Row, London; much like
"couture" is the turf of the assorted couture ateliers of Paris. (Only that to
be officially considered "couture" one must jump through a series of
bureaucratic hoops of the Gallic kind, whereas no such strictures enslave the
bespoke tailoring houses of London. But I digress.)
Anyway, the main differences are that a MTM suit will use a pre-existing
pattern adjusted to your own measurements, anomalies, asymmetries, etc. A
bespoke/custom suit will have a pattern made from scratch. Either kind of suit
(and the better ready-to-wear suits) will exhibit a few distinctive touches. A
partial list:
1- Style. The width of lapel, taper of trouser, pleat depth, etc., will
vary--at the very most--a few millimeters, year over year. The suit will likely
last 20-30 years, which is a long time to be wearing a nehru jacket or dropped
lapels or flared [shudder] trousers. Therefore it is vital the silhouette be
timeless.
2- Details. The details will be key. Matching the patterns at the pockets,
finishing and taping all seams on the inside (there are many seriously high-end
custom suits that have little or no lining), flower loop on the underside of
the lapel...all these distinguish the MTM/custom suit from its lesser brethren.
3- Construction. This suit will move well with the wearer. This is because the
armholes are egg-shaped, not round; the interlinings are floating canvas, not
fused, the shoulders follow the natural pitch of the collarbone, etc.
As you can imagine, none of this comes cheap, especially if you go for full
custom over MTM. (I've only had one full-custom once, and while it does fit
better than other MTM suits, I dunno it warrants the STIFF premium in price.)
Any questions?
-Joe in SoFla
I don't care, and you can't make me.